I'm just going to dump all my discoveries here, and hopefully they would be useful to the Nintendo Switch community.
If you think something is wrong, have some observations that I might have missed, stuff you want to contribute, or just general questions please feel free to post here.
If you want to use the information here somewhere else, feel free to do so, but please credit me (dekuNukem) if possible.
The "JC" is for the 10-pin Joycon connector, see below for details.
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Joycon runs at 1.8V
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There is no silkscreen marking component and test point numbers, maybe Nintendo is trying to discourage people from doing funky things to the Joycon?
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Also, in a bizarre move, Nintendo didn't use the traditional "one side pulled-up and other side to ground" way of reading buttons, instead they used a keypad configuration where buttons are arranged to rows and columns. They used the keypad scanner built-in inside the BCM20734 with 128KHz clock for reading the buttons. That means it would be extremely hard to spoof button presses for TAS and twitch-plays. Maybe the Pro controller is different, need to buy one though.
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The only button that's not part of the keypad is the joystick button, which is still activated by pulling it down to ground.
Well it's not actually a dump, just a capture of the SPI lines when the Joycon is powered up (battery connected). I don't have time to go through it right now but of course you can if you want.
The SPI clock runs at 3MHz.
When attached to the console, the Joycon talks to it through a physical connection instead of Bluetooth. There are 10 pins on the connector, I'm just going to arbitrarily name it like this:
Looking at the pins on the left Joycon, the left most one is Pin 1, and the right most one is Pin 10. I simply removed the rumble motor, burned a hole on the back cover, and routed all the wires out through that.
And here is a capture of the docking of the left Joycon.
| Logic analyzer channel | Joycon Connector Pin | Function | Remarks |
|---|---|---|---|
| - | 1 | GND | - |
| - | 2 | GND | - |
| 0 | 3 | BT status? | Only high when connected to console via bluetooth, low when unpaired, sleeping, or attached to the console directly |
| 1 | 4 | 5V | Joycon power and charging |
| 2 | 5 | Serial data, console to Joycon | Inverted level (idle at GND) |
| 3 | 6 | Attach status? | GND only when directly attached to console and not sleeping, 1.8V otherwise. |
| - | 7 | GND | - |
| 4 | 8 | Serial data, Joycon to console | Standard level (idle at 1.8V) |
| 5 | 9 | ? | Always at GND |
| 6 | 10 | Flow control | Looks like RTS line, Joycon will only send data when this line is high |
- When first connected the baud rate is at 1000000bps(!), after the initial handshake the speed is then switched to 3125000bps(!!). The handshake probably exchanges information about the side of the Joycon, the color, and bluetooth address etc.
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Pin 5 (Serial data, console to Joycon) is normally pulled high on the console side when nothing is connected. Since this line is inverted on the Joycon side, it will be pulled down when a Joycon is attached to the console, thus initializing a handshake.
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It seems Pin 5 needs to be pulled down for more than 500ms for the handshake to take place.
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Handshake starts at 1000000bps, and the console will send a 4-byte start sequence of
A1 A2 A3 A4, around 46us later followed by 12 byte command of19 01 03 07 00 A5 02 01 7E 00 00 00. It will send those commands repeatedly every 100ms (10Hz) for 3 seconds. If no response is received it gives up and wait for another event on the line. -
Under construction...
In normal operation the console asks Joycon for an update every 15ms (66.6fps), the command for requesting update is:
19 01 03 08 00 92 00 01 00 00 69 2d 1f
Around 4ms later, Joycon respond with a 61 bytes long answer.
One sample:
19 81 03 38
00 92 00 31
00 00 e9 2e
30 7f 40 00
00 00 65 f7
81 00 00 00
c0 23 01 e2
ff 3e 10 0a
00 d6 ff d0
ff 23 01 e1
ff 37 10 0a
00 d6 ff cf
ff 29 01 dd
ff 34 10 0a
00 d7 ff ce
ff
The first 8 byte is always 19 81 03 38 00 92 00 31, I'm not sure if this differs in different Joycons because I only took apart one.
The 16th and 17th byte (on line 5, before 65 f7) are the button status, when a button is pressed the corresponding bit is set to 1.
Byte 19 and 20 (f7 81 between 5th and 6th line) are the Joystick values, most likely the raw 8-bit ADC data. Byte 19 is X while byte 20 is Y. Again, bizarrely, the X value is reversed, as in the f7 should actually be 7f (127 at neutral position). The Y value is correct though (0x81 is 129).
Still working on decoding those... It has to contain battery level, button status, joystick position, accelerometer and gyroscope data, and maybe more.
Right now I'm working on spoofing Joycon with a microcontroller, it's basically a replay attack. It's sort of working now but still needs some refinement. I'll do a detailed writeup when it's finished but feel free to take a look at the code (it's a mess).
Right now I only took apart one left Joycon and yet to tear into the console itself, because I want to finish the Zelda first. But so far it looks like Nintendo make some really weird design decisions both in software and in hardware, probably to make what I'm doing more difficult. Anyway, I'll update this from time to time when I have new discoveries. Please share if you find this useful.