Anycubic M3, elephant foot calibration tool #528
Replies: 2 comments 15 replies
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Have you read https://github.com/sn4k3/UVtools/wiki/Calibration:-Elephant-Foot ? AA for anycubic machines don't work so great, it's fake AA.
This is to be applied in UVtools, so you should not change slicer settings after you come to the optimal result. Now you can run the test as shown and observe the results |
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There is a subtle difference between 1 and 7. You need to push more iterations.
You can try it out. You will notice that some grey levels are in same level because thier fake AA works with thresholds.
Yes.
One of the worse! They can have the best firmware in a day of codding, still they don't care to make thier machines better with virtually no cost! |
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No luck with any of my test prints with the elephant foot calibration tool. I tried multiple sets with AA of 2x and 8x at various levels of grey coming from my slicer for the dimming pixel tool (with wall thickness of 20 and 40 px, brightness from 40-240) and erode tools (2-20 pixel by 2 step) . No consistent or discernible difference in any of them. Frustrated with anycubic to say the least. Also printed the grey calibration tool shown below. Not sure that it helps my elephant foot cause at this point, but at least I got some information out of it. Really below 165 (2.36 sec) would be a waste to include in my AA files. At this point, may just try to not use AA and print everything on rafts with supports unfortunately. Printed 145-255 brightness (I converted to seconds like I though that was a good idea...) in steps of 10. |
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The erode with 20px didn't make a difference? :O If so something is wrong. You grey pie test show that at least AA is working, and as expected 4 sections exposed the same since your machine use exposure time threshold, which means with AAx4 you can have only 4 exposure times and all in between will expouse with all same time, with AAx8 you can have 8 different times and so on... thresholds:aa 1: 127 |
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Yeah not sure why the erode didn't work. I might just try the pixel arithmetic on a sliced model of mine to see how it works outside the calibration tool. Thanks for your help and timely replies. UVTools is an awesome tool, I wish I could fully utilize its potential with my printer. Next resin printer I will make sure plays nice. lol |
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Erode must work... Can you send me the file you print, attach here the file from pen drive which you selected to print. |
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I printed all of these. I think the APAA2 I didn’t do the erode on though.
Craig
From: Tiago Conceição ***@***.***>
Date: Monday, August 1, 2022 at 11:09 AM
To: sn4k3/UVtools ***@***.***>
Cc: alwayzbelearnin ***@***.***>, Author ***@***.***>
Subject: Re: [sn4k3/UVtools] Anycubic M3, elephant foot calibration tool (Discussion #528)
Erode must work... Can you send me the file you print, attach here the file from pen drive which you selected to print.
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Any of that files should have produce a visible change. If resin is not transparent. |
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Yea used opaque resin from a new bottle. Pretty ideal operating conditions. No sure why or how my M3's firmware could overcome the processing from UVTools. Have you heard of anybody using one of the M3's with any luck? |
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If you are using transparent resin you have the problem of overcuring the previous layer. Try to increase bottom layers to 20/30 |
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I didn’t use transparent resin. It was sky blue solid. |
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Then i'm out of ideias... |
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Printer: Anycubic M3
UVTools: 3.5.5
Slicer: Lychee, 8x AA, 20% grey
I'm attempting to combat elephant foot when printing directly on build plate. I dived into the the subject over the last few days and it seems like Anycubic firmware in general is not very friendly to tinkering. I was hopeful UVTools would be able to solve my problem with the elephant foot calibration tool. I used both the morph-erode and wall-dimming settings with an AA file. I expected the erode to show some difference in the print, and was hopeful for the wall-dimming to work. I have a successful looking preview (seen below), however all the test pieces look identical. My calibration pics are below as well.
I was hoping for some insight into this, or to hear of others' successes with the M3 series printers.
Is there anything else I should alter in Lychee regarding the AA or grey percentage? Is there anything I should try within UVTools? Is the anycubic firmware able to process the UVTools tool?
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