Yoga is too vast, let's explore it with games!
Identify the impact of each posture on the body:
- working muscles
- stretching muscles
- position
- type: relaxing, stretching, power, mixed
- hypergravity training
- feet off bouldering
Let the breath move you.
- let the breath move you
- guide the breath : ujjayi
- amplifying the breath
## Engage
Raise your awareness of the body layers.
- organ body scan
- hypergravity training
- feet off bouldering
- 6s on hangboard, with different size and types of holds
- campus board up
- campus up and down
- I engage in some kind of reactive or hypergravity training to condition my nervous system to function more efficientlyt during severe climbing movements
- hypergravity: weighted boulder / finger hang / HIT
- reactive: one arm lunging / campus touching
- "complex training": alternate between boulders and musculation
- I train and stretch my antagonist muscles
- reduce injury risk
- optimize strength and endurance
- maintain muscle balance
- I engage in some form of stamina training that will test the limits of my physical capacity to endure a sustained effort
- climbing intervals: 1v1, 2v2, 3v3, 4v4, 3v3, 2v2, 1v1
- running intervals: 20s 100%, 10s 0% x8
## Align
- Footing and support
- Backbone
- following the lines of the bones
- handholds are gripped lightly
- use of nonpositive handholds
- use of flagging
- hand foot
## Center
Maintain the integrity of the spine.
- centering the pelvis
- centering the weight on the feet
- elongating the spine before extension
- precise quiet foot placement
- I think about, experiment with, and strive to discover ways to become a more efficient climber
- I seek out and force myself onto climbs that will teach me new skills or shore up techniques at which I lack in proficiency
- I concentrate on the feeling of my body and strive to use this information to improve my performance
- I work boulder problems, sequences, or entire routes beyond the point of crude success with the goal of developping precise, economical movement skills
- practice climbing
- trial and error rather than rationalizing
- blocked pratice = repeating movements
- try and master each route, do not be content of just sending
- fatigued pratice to nail a movement / sequence, be most efficient
- restricted pratice:
- frog-leg
- high-step
- tennis ball
- straight arm
## Radiate
Move from the inside out: the human starfish.
- navel radiation
- the starfish
Place your body on strong and balanced foundations.
- the cascading effect of the foundation
Weight on the earth while maintaining the integrity of your posture.
- I'm able to create motivation to train or climb when I'm feeling tired, depressed and unproductive
- I can give up things that I recognize are holding me back from my goals
- once I've identified them, I am able to break bad habits of mind and technique that limit my ability and slow progress
- when I find myself procrastinating, I can create positive energy and take some action toward a worthy goal
- when criticism and or other outside factors trigger negative thoughts and feelings, I can quickly let go of the anger and regain a positive, self-confident state
- make an inventory of limiting behaviors:
- situation
- thoughts / reactions / habits
- how I want to behave
- imagine the pain of inaction
- split tasks into smaller chunks:
- with a well-defined goal
- doable in one go (30min of pure focus)
- match your breathing with action
- walk, talk, act like you've got it
- the crux is to engage, then you're done
- in preparing for and engaging on a climb, I detach myself from outcome-oriented thought and the need of success and instead dwell on the process of climbing and the experience of the movement
- make an inventory of your concentration killers:
- sensory distractions
- focusing on the past
- focusing on the future
- dwelling on internal feelings, sensations of fatigue
- entertaining non-productive self-talk
- focusing on the mechanics
- taking care of distractions before engaging in an activity
- use rituals to focus
- keep your eyes on task relevant targets
- clock drill
- singular focus climbing
- attention-shifting drill
- breathing
## Contentment - Santosha
- I get anxious, tight, and hesitant as I climb a crux sequence, and I have a tough time preventing this
- I get angry or frustrated when I struggle or fall on a route or encounter unexpected difficulties
- I can regain a positive mind-set and optimie arousal at reste positions, between attempts on a climb, or during a competition
- after a bad day of climbing or a poor road trip, I can quickly shake off the disappointment and regain a positive, productive, future-oriented frame of mind
- I can find a way to enjoy almost any day even if I'm not climbing well or things aren't going as planned
- if I'm feeling anxious or scared before a climb, I take a mental inventory of past successes and remind myself of my experience and preparation in order to create a more effective mental state for climbing
- Do an emotional introspection / bilan:
- list the emotional triggers (strong & mildy positive + negative)
- relate the emotional state: duration, context etc
- deep breathing
- direct muscle relaxation (consciously relax)
- ANSWER sequence
- change posture (stand upstraight etc)
- turn self-talk to positive ideas and images
- create anchors to positive states
- take a mental inventory of positive ideas, emotions, situations, memories etc
- I'm proactive in managing risk in order to reduce the fear factor, control arousal, and improve my chances for a safe, successful climb
- I become distracted due to the hardships and unknowns of the climb
- I get nervous and afraid heading up on an on-sight, project, or competition route
- I ponder the potential for embarassment and become anxious because of the uncertainty of the outcome
- when lead climbing a safe route, I push myself to the complete limit and, if I fall, I fall trying
- I make ecuses for why I might fail on a route before I even begin to climb
- make an inventory of your fears, and for each one:
- what are the triggers ?
- look for objective reasons
- can you reduce the risk:
- with preparation
- by proactiviely looking for clues
- imagine and accept the possible outcomes
- imagine the best reaction
- lead
- no top rope
- pass a roof
- climb overhanging wall
- jump at the end of the climb
- falling xx times
- finishing after falling
- take practice falls
- change the interpretation of the fear signals
- breath
- interpret failure and criticism as opportunities to improve
- accept the unknown: if you wanted to stay in the routine, you shouldn't have gone out
- I visualize strategy, process, and the ideal outcome in all important tasks I undertake
- in preparing for a difficul climb, I strive to preprogram the ascent by vividly visualizing myself climbing the route, feeling the moves, before I leave the ground
- I use self-talk and mantras to maintain focus, aid execution, and sustain effort during a hard undertaking
- I try to stimulate the moves and muscleaction needed for a current project or upcoming climb
- I engage in meditation, visualization, or some form of mental exercise to prepare my mind and body for future activities and goals
- in the time leading up to an important goal, I utilize rituals and routines that past experience has proven to put me in the best frame of mind and physical state for peak performance
- mental rehearsal: visualize the route, feel the movements
- bedtime affirmation: use strong ideas and images as you wake up / go to sleep
- when faced with a tough situation or unexpected adversity, I get inspired and accept the challenge
- in the wake of an adverse situation, I spin the negative outcome into something positive by identifying a lesson learned or determining a way that it has made me stronger
- when I get up in the morning,I emmediately think positive, productive thoughts that will help prepare me for the challenges of the day
- be a spin-doctor: keep the good
- use optimism as a tool: assume a positive outcome, look for the motivating
- reverse paranoid: things support me toward success (imagine if xxx didn't exist)
- throughout the day I'm aware of my decision-making processes, the direction and quality of my thought, and the outside triggers that affect my thoughts
- I monitor how I feel and assess the quality of my thoughts and actions
- I ponder my true motives for the things I do, big and small
- in making major decisions, I consider and leverage my hierarchy of personal values
- personal values
- meditation and observing your thoughts
## Self-Concept
- I march to my own drummer and possess the confidence to step away from the crowd
- I get down on myself and question my ability and worth when I struggle on a climb or have an off day
## Willpower
- I can push myself to an extreme level of fatigue and pain
- when the chips are down, I can perform up near my maximum ability and throw all I've got at a climb or goal
- I push myself through a long scary runout between bolts
or gear, when I know either:
- that the gear will hold a big fall
- that I'm capable of climbing that section without falling
- rest vs active
- overall climbing time
- resting & belaying time
- periods over the year
- NOT climbing time
- time using the application ~ motivation
- I set specific goals for my daily training and each climbing outing, as opposed to making it up on the go
- at some point each week, I review my long-term climbing and life goals, then mentally work backward to determine what short-term actions I should take to remain on course
- set long-term goals, make them challenging and meaningful
- ... short-term ...
- ... life ...
- identify gaps and motivations to improve
- I solicit my partner for an assessment of how well I appear to be climbing and what aspect of my game need improvement
## Training Optimization
- I direct my practice sessions -and perform specific drills- to expand the breadth and depth of my skills
- I thoughtfully design my workouts to train up my weaknesses and ultimately to provide the greatest payoff for the time I have available to invest in training
- session types
- climbing styles and locations
- I plan my training far in advance to prepare for a specific climb, trip, or expedition; or as a way to keep things progressive and avoid overtraining
- I study a route extensively to develop strategies for a successful ascent, imagining possible sequences, gear placement, and rest positions as well as developing what-if scenarios to aid risk management
- use of rests positions
# Overall Skills
- objectifs : étirements, relaxation, renforcement, conscience, souffle
- précisions : faiblesse, niveau, blessure, rythme, musique....
- achievements : yoga asanas, learn names, time of pratice, regularity, meet your goals,
- skills : alignment, breathing, consciousness
- physical : rythm, strength of postures,
pour chaque asana :
- localiser les muscles qui travaillent
- les muscles qui sont étirés,
- le type de posture : repos, équilibre, renforcement
- la position : ouverture hanches, poitrine, alignement x et y, appuis
- images et visualisations : étirer vers le ciel, attiré par la terre, paysage, ...
## Flow
- grades over time :
- warm up time = low grade / max grade
- peak time
- confort time = conti
Interpret climbing time:
- number of times performed a specific exercise
- ratio out / in
- repeat count on a project
- personal projects & sends
## Redpointing